Our schedule was tight. We could
only stay in Tahawndam for two nights. We immediately started to prepare
for the return journey back to Kuraun. When we arrived there, I learned
that Dawey had cut his stay in Putao short and returned to his home village
that very same day. Even for someone as accustomed to walking in the mountains
as Dawey, this forced march had taken a toll on his joints. So, to take
it easy on him, we went for a relaxed stroll together in the village.
In this way, I was able to speak
with him directly, without going through the village headman. "Paamaaraa,"
I said to him, using the Rawang greeting. I put out my hand and he shook
it, returning the greeting: "Paamaaraa". He remembered me from our earlier
meeting.
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Seeing this friendly exchange, some
children who had been wary of me until then began to come closer. As I
started to photograph him, Dawey was suddenly surrounded by children.
The highest peak in all of Southeast
Asia is Mt. Kakaborazi. The base camp is a two-day trek from Tahawndam.
Its name, incidentally, comes from the Tarong word kakabora, meaning a
chicken protecting its chicks, plus the Rawang word razi, or mountain.
In the not-so-distant future, with
the passing of Dawey and his sisters, this name may be the last remaining
trace of Tarong culture in Burma. It was this harsh reality that I felt
I had to record.
(text & Photo by Yuzo Uda / Translated Nelson Jason)
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